2011 Loire vintage: Chinon and Bourgueil (20th September)

Generous bunch of Cabernet Franc in a Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil vineyard on the gravel

Despite some rain in September the Cabernet Franc looks for the moment to be resisting rot in Chinon, Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. Picking is at different stages in the three appellations. The vineyards on the gravel and sandy flats of Saint-Nicolas have now been largely picked often by machine. Despite reports of rot in these vineyards the grapes that remained looked healthy and there appeared by be very little rot about. Bourgueil is now underway – some started at the end of last week while others waited until Monday. In Chinon some have started on the reds, while others like Baudry-Dutour and Couly-Dutheil are picking for rosé this week and will start on the reds at the beginning of next week. Others, like Nicolas Grosbois and Bertrand Couly, are picking the reds now. 

For the white Chinon, Baudry-Dutour have picked their domaine white but waiting to pick for their barrel fermented Chinon Blanc. Couly-Dutheil are picking their most fragile parcels of Chenin.  

 Chenin Blanc@Couly-Dutheil (above and below)

 Reasonably nobly rotten

 Less noble 

Trailer of Chenin

60 years of Chinon in prospect

La Vienne, the town of Chinon and part of the Château

Thursday: off to Chinon for a big tasting on Friday morning when the Chinon producers are showing a range of wines over 60 vintages for 1945 to 2005. This promises to be fascinating. Although I have tasted a few 1947 Chinons I don’t think I have tasted any since 1992 – some long time ago. Same for the famous 1964, which I have tasted but not recently – 64 has the reputation of being one of the great Chinons.

Of course it may be the famous vintages like 1945, 1947, 1949, 1959, 1964, 1989, 1990, 1996 and 2005 will shine but it will be equally fascinating to see how the less heralded vintages have aged – 1948 or 1951 for example – likewise 1963 or 1968.

First off it was the Eurostar to Paris and then across on the Metro 4 to the Gare de Montparnasse – not one of my favourite railway stations: a monument to concrete and very impersonal. It doesn’t have a scintilla of the charm of the Gare du Lyon or even the Gare du Nord.

This evening we will be at the Château de Rivau, where we are promised that the late François Rabelais, Chinon’s greatest ambassador may put in an appearance.

PS: I didn’t have a chance to post this before today’s fascinating and very interesting vertical of Chinon, although it wasn’t quite as advertised as we started with a 1934. More details of the tasting tomorrow.

Château du Rivau where the tasting was held